Brunei or not Brunei, that was the question.
Our visit to Brunei was somewhat unexpected. Our initial plans did not include visiting this sultanate, but when we were in Miri (Sarawak province, Malaysia) and saw that flights to Kota Kinabalu (Sabah province) were beyond our budget, the idea of crossing the country by bus emerged—since Brunei lies almost exactly between both Malaysian states of Borneo.
Why not? We were so close… And, following the saying that it’s better to regret what you’ve done than what you haven’t, we decided to visit Brunei.
Brunei Darussalam, located north of Malaysia’s Sarawak province along the coast of the South China Sea, is an Islamic country governed by Sultan Muda Hassanal Bolkiah and follows strict regulations. Its capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, is an intriguing city, known for its water village and several tourist attractions that can keep visitors entertained for a day or two.
This tiny country is vastly different from its Southeast Asian neighbors, something you notice the moment you cross the border from Malaysia. The first things that stood out to us from the top of the bus upon arrival were the well-maintained roads, the cleanliness, and the numerous oil extraction plants visible on both sides of the highway.
Although Brunei offers more attractions, such as a visit to Ulu Temburong National Park, we chose not to go since we had already included several other parks in our Malaysian itinerary. If, like us, you decide to visit Brunei but have limited time, below are some details of our “express” visit to the capital.
This mosque was built in 1958 in honor of the 28th Sultan of Brunei, who shared the same name. Majestic, with marble minarets, golden domes, and surrounded by fountains, it sits on an artificial lagoon that can be crossed to reach the replica of Sultan Bolkiah’s royal barge.
The view is stunning and highly photogenic. The mosque is so large that it can be seen from almost anywhere in the city. Avoid visiting at midday, as there is little shade in the area, and you might end up getting scorched…
Or, in other words, the museum of the king’s ego. At first, this visit seemed unnecessary, but looking back, it helped us grasp the sheer extent of the sultan’s wealth.
The museum, filled with gifts the ruler has received from other heads of state, offers a glimpse into his life. Among its exhibits, you can find intriguing items such as the carriage he used for public appearances (complete with mannequins for added realism) and miniature replicas of airplanes.
Swords, garments, crowns, tableware… It’s a shame that cameras aren’t allowed inside because some of the gifts were truly worth photographing. Regardless, before leaving, we managed to take a couple of photos at the entrance. 😉
To explore the floating villages and surrounding mangroves, we negotiated with one of the “water taxi” boatmen for a short excursion lasting just over an hour.
These unique villages, home to over 30,000 residents, are built entirely on the water. Houses, schools, mosques, a police station, and even a fire station all stand on stilts above the river. In the midst of it all, numerous water taxis transport people from one place to another.
Leaving the village and heading toward the mangrove, you can catch a glimpse of the sultan’s enormous palace from the boat—an opulent residence that, unsurprisingly, rivals both his mosque and his museum.
We highly recommend negotiating a visit to the mangrove, as it’s one of the best places to spot proboscis monkeys feeding along the riverbanks, as well as the occasional crocodile.
If the boat doesn’t get too close, the monkeys won’t be startled, allowing you to observe them for a while.
On the way back, it’s worth taking another look at the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, this time from the water and at a distance.
Don’t worry, you don’t need to spend a fortune to eat in BSB. Even though you might have heard that Brunei is very expensive, there are plenty of affordable options for backpackers. Just look for local restaurants, such as Ristoran Seri Indah, where you can find delicious noodle, rice, and Indian dishes for just 1 or 2 dollars.
