CONMOCHILA IN ENGLISH

Koh Phi Phi

The ultimate guide

The Koh Phi Phi archipelago is possibly the most coveted destination among mass tourists traveling to Thailand, partly because it houses Thailand’s most famous beach, Maya Bay. As a result, this small cluster of islands is as impressive as it is crowded.

Does this mean it isn’t worth visiting the Phi Phi Islands? Quite the opposite. Its waters contain some of the most beautiful coves in Thailand. However, if you want to explore the Andaman Sea and enjoy all the splendor of this archipelago, it’s best to understand the ins and outs of this location to avoid disappointments and navigate it well.

BEFORE YOU GO

The Koh Phi Phi Islands

Many travelers refer to Phi Phi as if it were a single island, as only one of them is inhabited: the crowded Koh Phi Phi Don. If you decide to stay a few nights in this idyllic location, you will need to stay on this island, which is highly recommended if you choose wisely. Here’s a detailed look at the archipelago:

  • Koh Phi Phi Don: The main island where all the hotels in the archipelago are located. A couple of decades ago, it was a paradise, but after the 2004 tsunami, it became overcrowded. The island is so lush that to get from one beach to another, you need to travel by boat. It has crowded areas with bars overflowing with people and others where you can be practically alone.
  • Koh Phi Phi Lee: This is the other major island, home to Maya Bay. This is Thailand’s most iconic beach but also the most overwhelmed by tourism. Which led to the bay being closed for several years to allow the marine environment to recover. It can only be accessed by boat.
La isla de Phi Phi Leh junto a Maya Bay, antes de que fuera reabierta al turismo
Phi Phi Lee Island next to Maya Bay, before it was reopened to tourism.
  • Koh Mai Phai: Also known as Bamboo Island, it is a small, remote islet with a long white sandy beach and turquoise waters, perhaps the most impressive in the archipelago.
  • Koh Bida Noi and Koh Bida Nok: These are two uninhabited limestone islets around Koh Phi Phi Lee. They are accessible by boat, but their presence is fascinating, and they are exceptional spots for diving.
  • Koh Yung: Known as Mosquito Island, this location is almost always off-limits for swimming. It’s said that sharks might patrol its waters, and you cannot access its two beaches. Some consider Koh Yung a deserted island and attempt to reach it as a challenge, but it’s a risk that’s not worth taking.

Our recommendation is to stay at least a couple of nights in the Koh Phi Phi Islands if you decide to explore and enjoy them. For this, you will need to stay on Phi Phi Don, where you can find accommodations in both tranquil and bustling areas.

When to Visit the Phi Phi Islands

Like all beach destinations in the Andaman Sea, there are two main seasons to visit the Phi Phi Islands, though they can be divided into three:

  • High Season (mid-November to February): This is the best time to visit the islands if you want the best weather. Expect mild temperatures around 25°C, especially in December and January, with sunny days and blue skies. On the downside, hotels are more expensive, and everything is crowded, so it’s important to book accommodations in advance.
  • Shoulder Season (March and April): Starting in March, temperatures begin to rise significantly, and by April, Thailand can be unbearably hot for many. The skies will still be blue and there will be no rain, but the heat on the beach will be intense, and sun’s rays are more harmful. Keep in mind that mid-April is Thai New Year, and during this time, travel and hotel prices reach exorbitant levels.
Koh Phi Phi Leh on a cloudy day last June.
  • Low Season (May to early November): Those who prefer to travel on a budget and find less crowded beaches can opt for this time of year, although rain is possible. This is the monsoon season, and it can rain for an hour each day, with many days being cloudy. Within this period, September typically sees the most rainfall.

Atento al consejo Travel Advice: Check out our article on the best time to visit Thailand for month-by-month climate information.

Travel Insurance

It’s essential to travel to Thailand with comprehensive insurance. We were among the first to offer the popular 5% IATI discount, and you can now get it with Heymondo Travel Insurance as well. You can find more information about both companies through the links provided above, or you can access the discount directly using the buttons below (in both cases, you’ll see the reduced final price on their website):

Thailand eSIM with Internet

While many hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants in Thailand offer free Wi-Fi, some travelers prefer or need a constant connection. We’ve included details on obtaining a eSIM Thailand card with unlimited data (from Holafly) or with fixed data but cheaper (from Saily).

If you want to get it directly, here’s the link (with a discount) for both companies:

How to Get to the Phi Phi Islands

To reach the archipelago, you will need to go to the main island, Koh Phi Phi Don, which can be accessed by ferry or private speedboat. There are three main places where you can catch a ferry to reach the islands on your own:

From Phuket

Every day, there are two or three boat trips from Rassada Pier, on the east of the island, to Tonsai Pier on Phi Phi Don. The journey takes less than two hours and can be booked in advance.

From Krabi

The trip is a bit longer but still manageable on a ferry similar to the one from Phuket. The destination is the same: Tonsai Pier on Phi Phi Don.

From Koh Yao Yai

This is a different and less known alternative. Koh Yao Yai is a quiet island accessible from Phuket, where you can take many excursions to nearby beaches, including Phi Phi. It is an ideal option for those who wish to enjoy solitude. The journey can also be booked in advance, but it costs twice as much as from Krabi or Phuket because it is done by speedboat.

Atento al consejo Choosing between Krabi or Phuket to reach Phi Phi is a personal decision. Both destinations take roughly the same amount of time to get to from Bangkok or Chiang Mai, and flight prices are similar.


WHAT TO SEE / DO

Koh Phi Phi Don

If you decide to stay on the island, the ferry will drop you off at Tonsai Pier. Here, you’ll encounter the most touristy part of the archipelago, evident as soon as you set foot on land, with vendors and, especially, water taxi drivers approaching you. The issue with Phi Phi Don is that it cannot be traversed by road, so you will need to explore its beaches by boat to reach different areas.

Where you choose to stay on Phi Phi Don will greatly affect your experience, as each short boat ride might cost more than the ferry ride to the island. Here are three options:

  • Central Tourist Area: This includes the bustling Tonsai area, Viking Beach, and the much more relaxed Lo Dalum Bay. Here, you will have fewer problems getting around the islands, though it is very touristy. Expect parties, bars, and many restaurants, making it ideal if that’s what you’re looking for. You could also walk to the tranquil Loh Moo Dee Bay if you want to stay close to the center but avoid the crowds.
barco tailandés
Boatmen who act as taxi drivers in Phi Phi.
  • Long Beach Area: Known as Long Beach, it is very close to Tonsai Village but is only accessible on foot for a few hours a day; for the rest of the time, you will need to use a boat taxi. It has a backpacker vibe and is somewhat more affordable.
  • Northern Area: The most exclusive and secluded. Beaches here include Lo Bah Gao Bai and Laem Tong. They are very quiet, with few restaurants and empty beaches, making it ideal if you don’t mind being away from the center in search of tranquility.

With these options in mind, you can enjoy your stay on Phi Phi Don, whether you’re seeking party vibes or a more serene connection with nature.

Our recommendation is to stay at least a couple of nights. That way, if you arrive early on the first day, you can explore half of Phi Phi Don. On the second day, it’s best to visit the other islands in the Phi Phi archipelago in the morning (details on that later) and then explore the rest of the central island in the afternoon.

Some of Phi Phi Don’s beaches are stunning, and visiting this island alone makes the trip to the archipelago worthwhile. Here are the main ones:

  • Loh Dalum: An oasis near Tonsai, but we don’t even list it as a beach because it is crowded with boats and litter. Loh Dalum is quiet, has good views, and is clean despite being next to the island’s most crowded hotels.
  • Long Beach: As its name suggests, it is the longest beach on the island. It is more pleasant than Tonsai and has reasonably priced accommodations.
  • Loh Moh Dee: Although accessible on foot from Tonsai, it is quite tranquil. It is an alternative for accommodation, though there are better beaches.
carretera koh phi phi
The northern beaches are connected by internal paths that you can do on foot.
  • Loh Ba Gao: The first beach in the secluded northern area, with the most spectacular resort. Perfect for couples or honeymooners seeking seclusion and top-notch Thai service in the middle of a beach that connects with the next two.
Phi Phi playa Loh Ga Bao
Loh Ba Gao Beach before a tropical storm.
  • Loh Lana: Located just a few minutes’ walk from the previous beach. There are no hotels, bars, or restaurants. Sometimes a single taxi driver may be found if someone arrives by boat, but it is perhaps the most untouched beach on the island, where you can experience the kind of solitude often seen in shipwreck movies. However, its waters are not as beautiful as those of other beaches.
taxi islas phi phi
On Loh Lana beach there is usually only one taxi driver or even no one at all.
  • Laem Tong: Possibly the crown jewel of the northern beaches. It features beautiful turquoise waters and white sand in an environment with few tourists and a handful of hotels, making it one of the most worthwhile locations on the Phi Phi Islands.
A tourist in Laem Tong Beach.
  • Nui Beach: Tiny but charming, with a small island in front of it. It must be reached by boat.
Barcas norte phi phi tailandia
Boats moored in the north of the Phi Phi Islands.
  • Monkey Beach: As the name suggests, it’s the beach with monkeys located in the north. It can only be reached by boat, and if you decide to go, be cautious as the monkeys will likely try to steal something from you.

On Koh Phi Phi Don, there is a good selection of restaurants and local shops, as well as some viewpoints near Tonsai that are worth visiting. The best dining spots are in the northern area but are also the most expensive.

Ostras tailandesas
Whims at affordable prices in the only restaurant in Loh Ba Gao: oysters and a glass of wine facing the sea for 11 euros.

Tip: For those who decide to stay on Phi Phi Don for at least two days to fully enjoy the archipelago, it’s crucial to find a boatman to visit Phi Phi Leh and the other islands. While organized tours are available in Phi Phi, opting for a private boat is a very interesting alternative.

The ideal scenario is to hire a local boatman for a private tour in a traditional longtail boat. The price usually ranges from 2,000 to 3,000 baht (about 60 to 80 euros) for three hours. This way, you can choose where to go and avoid the rigid schedules of organized tours, making the experience more personalized.

You can also book in book in advance from home, but the price will be higher. It’s up to you.

Koh Phi Phi Leh and Surroundings

For many, this is the highlight of the trip to the Phi Phi Islands and even to all of Thailand, especially for those seeking the iconic photo often seen. Koh Phi Phi Leh is home to the coveted Maya Bay, which became the most iconic maritime location in Thailand after being featured in the film The Beach, starring Leonardo DiCaprio.

Taking a private longtail boat is the best way to reach Phi Phi Leh.

The best way to get to Phi Phi Leh is by private longtail boat. From Phi Phi Don, as well as from Krabi and Phuket, there are numerous tours to Maya Bay, but it’s better to go privately. We recommend having the boatman choose the time of day with the fewest visitors. Typically, departing at 7 AM allows for a peaceful experience at the bay, but you don’t need to wake up that early if you’re leaving from Phi Phi Don.

However, what often impresses more are the limestone formations that outline the entire Phi Phi Leh area, including the nearby islands of Koh Bida Noi and Koh Bida Nok. Snorkeling here is exceptional, or you can simply relax on the boat.

Koh Phi Phi Leh
Phi Phi Leh

Before delving into the specifics of Maya Bay, note that your boatman can take you to other exceptional bays around Koh Phi Phi Leh. As experts who live off tourism in this region say, Maya Bay is just another pretty beach in the archipelago, notable mainly for its fame from the movie.

In Phi Phi Leh, there is also the Blue Lagoon, popularized as the “blue lagoon”, a saltwater lake surrounded by limestone rock that can be accessed by boat. The reflections here are spectacular.

Laguna azul phi phi leh
Boats moored in Blue Lagoon

Boatmen often also take visitors to the Viking Cave for a brief stop. However, if you want to experience something similar, it’s much better to visit Phang Nga Bay, where the famous James Bond Island is located. That, however, is on the other side of the Andaman Sea.

Despite this, Maya Bay is considered by many to be the highlight of Phi Phi Leh. Even during the years, the beach was closed to the public, tourists kept asking about it. It has become ingrained in the collective imagination as the best beach in Thailand. But how true is this?

Maya Bay turistas
Maya Bay, a beach to go take photos

Years ago, Maya Bay was so overcrowded that the coral in the area was severely damaged due to human activity. Hordes of tourists in boats emitting diesel and littering destroyed a site that, for the Thai government, is a top marine icon. After being closed to the public for years, the marine ecosystem has revived, and the beach has reopened, but under strict military conditions.

Maya Bay is not a beach for relaxation but a tourist attraction to visit as if it were a museum. To access it, you must enter from the back of the island where boats can dock and walk through a path highlighting the place’s magnificence.

Entrada Maya Bay
The military takes care of the entire process from the moment your ship docks.

Before you can enter the beach, there is an entrance fee. Despite a campaign against the government in Thailand for charging foreigners ten times more than locals, even for resident foreigners. Thais pay 40 baht, while the rest of the world pays 400 baht (about 11 euros). This will be the fee to pay.

After passing an artificial viewpoint created solely for taking photos, you are quickly reminded that you are entering paradise… and reminded of the rules. Your stay is limited to one hour, monitored by boat controls, and swimming, drinking, or eating is prohibited. The idea is for you to visit and take photos of what is supposedly paradise. The reality is quite different.

Maya Bay 2022
Maya Bay at one of the quietest times of the day, in June 2022, when there are no organized tours.

Everything is orchestrated under the military’s claim that Maya Bay is a paradise to be preserved, and there is even a mound in the middle of the beach as a tribute to the army. The no-swimming rule, said to protect the coral, has a trick: it ensures that when someone takes a photo, there is no one else between them and the beach. With social media as today’s main source of information, this makes sense.

So, should you visit Maya Bay or not? It depends on the individual, and perhaps seeing it once in a lifetime is worthwhile. But be aware that it is a tourist visit with limitations, similar to visiting an ancient cave where you can only walk in a designated area. If you want to experience a spectacular beach where you can spend the day, it’s better to head to the next island.

Koh Mai Phai, Known as ‘Bamboo Island’

The other significant island in the Phi Phi archipelago is Koh Mai Phai, commonly known as Bamboo Island. It is also accessible only by boat, and organized trips are available from Phuket or Phi Phi Don. The same boatman who takes you around Phi Phi Leh from the central island can often take you to Bamboo Island.

Bamboo Island Phi Phi
White sand and pristine waters.

There is not much to do on Bamboo Island, there is only one restaurant with somewhat expensive but acceptable prices, which fortunately does not invade the sandy area. Bring a book, a towel and just spend time there.

The sea looks spectacular on this beach.

The main recommendation on this huge white sand beach is to avoid lunchtime, since organized tours usually stop at this time of day on its shore. Sunset, for example, is a great time to spend there.


TOURS

Island Tours

One of the best ways to explore the Phi Phi Islands is by taking a traditional boat tour. There are numerous tours available:

Tour Phi Phi en barca tradicional
Tour Phi Phi en barca tradicional

Diving

Koh Phi Phi has some of the most fascinating underwater landscapes, which many people are unaware of. Its clear waters are home to sharks, manta rays, turtles, and beautiful coral reefs.

Buceo en Koh Phi Phi
Diving in Koh Phi Phi

If you’re looking to get started with diving, there are some great offers:

For those with more diving experience, consider this option:


SLEEP

Where to Sleep in Koh Phi Phi

As mentioned earlier, your choice of accommodation will significantly impact your experience in the archipelago, especially since hotels are only available on Koh Phi Phi Don.

Prices start at around eight or nine euros for shared rooms in the noisier areas and can rise to whatever you’re willing to spend. Here are three accommodation options in different areas of the island:

Budget

Sweed Dee Hostel. Slightly more expensive than the noisier hostels in Tonsai, this hostel is located on Loh Dalum Beach, making it much quieter. It’s ideal for those who want to enjoy Phi Phi’s lively nightlife without enduring excessive noise.

Hotel en Phi Phi económico

Phi Phi Coral Bay Bungalow.  If you prefer not to stay in shared rooms, bungalows are a good economical alternative. These are comfortable and nicely decorated, though they are a bit further from the beach. The area is tranquil, and the price is reasonable.

Hotel en Phi Phi económico

Mid-range

HIP Seaview Resort @ Phi Phi. A beautiful resort with quite luxurious bungalows situated right in front of Long Beach, a more relaxed area ideal for those who want to be close to the action but away from the most crowded spots.

Hotel en Phi Phi moderado

P.P. Erawan Palms Resort. Romantic and meticulously maintained, this resort is located on the northern island’s most beautiful beach. It’s somewhat isolated, but if you’re seeking tranquility in a stunning setting, this is a fantastic place to stay. Some rooms have sea views, and all are just a few steps from the water.

Hotel en Phi Phi moderado

Luxury

Phi Phi CoCo Beach Resort. A luxury resort for those who want to be close to the center with all the high-end amenities while avoiding the nighttime noise in Tonsai. Located on Loh Dalum Beach, it offers fantastic facilities, including a superb pool and international-standard restaurants, though at a premium price.

Hotel en Phi Phi estrella

SAii Phi Phi Island Village. The most impressive hotel on the island, occupying the entire Loh Bao Gao Beach and blending seamlessly with the natural environment. This resort exemplifies how to create a high-end retreat that respects and integrates with its natural surroundings, making the beach an exclusive space for guests only. However, the high price makes it a temporary luxury.

Hotel en Phi Phi estrella

TIPS

Eating and Drinking on the Phi Phi Islands

Koh Phi Phi is well-known for its lively nightlife, especially near Tonsai, where you can find a bit of everything. However, the best quality dining in the country is not found in the archipelago. In Krabi or Phuket, there are much better and cheaper seafood restaurants.

This is because Phi Phi Don is a limited and highly sought-after island, where rentals are very expensive, and most people passing through are just visiting briefly. However, in the northern part of the country, you’ll find some much better restaurants, especially if you’re looking for Thai seafood, which is the island’s specialty. A good recommendation is to try the tom yam seafood soup at any restaurant near the beach.

In many beachfront restaurants in Phi Phi, a steamed sea bass with lime and vegetables costs around 14 euros.

The quality of food in Tonsai drops significantly, especially when there are parties nearby. Phi Phi is a great place to go out and have fun, but while there are lively bars like Rolling Stoned, there are also many options geared towards drunkenness on the beach.

Responsible snorkeling

Exploring the underwater world is a fascinating yet sometimes daunting activity. Simply putting on a diving mask and peering beneath the surface reveals a whole new world of colors and unfamiliar life forms.

Responsible snorkeling
Responsible snorkeling

However, this world needs to be cared for and respected. If you’re planning to include snorkeling in your trip and want to ensure your presence doesn’t negatively impact the ecosystem, consider learning about responsible diving practices (whether with or without a tank).

Map

Click on the image and it will take you to a new Google Maps window with all the points of interest to travel around the Koh Phi Phi islands.

Mapa Koh Phi Phi
Koh Phi Phi’s map

A Reflection for Your Trip to the Phi Phi Islands

The Phi Phi Islands are one of those destinations many feared would suffer from over-tourism. The beauty of the place is undeniable, and there are exceptional beaches. However, uncontrolled tourism has taken its toll on a place that many want to visit, and others prefer to avoid escaping its overcrowding.

It’s a personal decision, but it’s worth noting that the Phi Phi Islands have been significantly damaged by the economic activities of an industry that couldn’t handle such high tourist numbers at certain points in the archipelago.

botellón playa tailandia
Buckets with cheap alcohol for sale on the beach.

We’ve previously mentioned that there are many beautiful beaches on the Phi Phi Islands, and perhaps it’s more reasonable to seek refuge in them to avoid destroying the places where tourism has become excessive. Maybe it’s time to consider places like Laem Thong instead of Maya Bay.

Similarly, parties on Tonsai’s beaches can be very destructive to the natural environment if waste is not properly managed. It’s up to us to ensure that the Phi Phi Islands can still be considered a Thai paradise.