When we visited Koh Phangan for the first time, we thought that the bar for beaches had been set very high and that it would be difficult to beat. However, a year later, we set foot on Koh Tao, and it quickly became our favorite island of our trips to Thailand.
Koh Tao had everything we were looking for at the time: quiet beaches with excellent snorkeling, abundant nature, and numerous diving schools—all within a few kilometers. This limited access helped to prevent overcrowding.
It is true that Koh Tao has changed significantly in recent years. Over the past decade, it has become so popular for offering affordable diving courses that the island is no longer a secret. However, if you avoid the high season and Sairee Beach, the experience can still be wonderful. Though, keep in mind that everything changes quickly in Thailand…
Located in the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Tao is the little sister of the famous archipelago that includes Koh Phangan and Koh Samui. Although we only stayed one day on Koh Samui (we didn’t need more to realize it wasn’t our style), Koh Tao earned its place as our favorite island.
We had considered visiting Thailand on our first trip, and the idea of exploring Koh Tao, which many people talked about, remained in our minds. What finally pushed us to visit was Brujo’s invitation to take the Open Water course at his IHASIA diving school. Koh Tao is renowned for its crystal-clear waters and diverse underwater fauna, making it a top destination for diving and courses in Thailand.
Koh Tao has three main seasons:
Travel advice: Check out our article on the best time to visit Thailand for month-by-month climate information.
It’s essential to travel to Thailand with comprehensive insurance. We were among the first to offer the popular 5% IATI discount, and you can now get it with Heymondo Travel Insurance as well. You can find more information about both companies through the links provided above, or you can access the discount directly using the buttons below (in both cases, you’ll see the reduced final price on their website):
While many hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants in Thailand offer free Wi-Fi, some travelers prefer or need a constant connection. We’ve included details on obtaining a eSIM Thailand card with unlimited data (from Holafly) or with fixed data but cheaper (from Saily).
If you want to get it directly, here’s the link (with a discount) for both companies:
Depending on your starting point, there are different ways to reach the island.
To get from Surat Thani to Koh Tao, you need to take a boat. Several companies operate at different times, so it’s best to check their schedules and choose the one that suits you best. Ferries also depart daily from Chumphon to the island.
In the following link, you will find all the options available, which vary depending on your point of origin (e.g., arriving directly from the airport or coming from the city center). Depending on your starting location, the journey to Koh Tao will take between 2.5 hours and nearly 6 hours.
By Train: Railway lines reach Chumphon, and you can purchase a combined ticket that includes the train, bus transfer to the port, and ferry to the island (check with the Lomprayah company).
By Bus: Agencies usually offer combined tickets that include the bus to Chumphon port and the ferry to the islands.
By Plane: If you’re far from Koh Tao, you can fly to one of the three closest airports: Surat Thani, Chumphon, or Koh Samui. Several low-cost airlines offer flights to these destinations. From there, you only need to take a ferry to the island. Below are some links to flight offers for these destinations.
Tip: Check out How to Get from Koh Tao to Kanchanaburi (via Hua Hin) if Kanchanaburi (coming soon) is your next destination.
The first beach we visited in Koh Tao was Chalok Baan Kao, where the Ihasia school is located. Although it is not one of the best beaches for swimming due to its shallow water, its appearance is truly impressive. The view is picture-perfect.
We visited a few times, and while we didn’t swim much, we made a few canine friends who enjoyed sitting with us on the sandbank a few feet from the shore.
From Chalok Baan Kao, you can see a cluster of giant rocks resembling the figure of Buddha, which is how the place got its name. If you take a kayak and paddle out, you’ll find other small beaches behind these rocks where you can relax away from the crowds.
At night, the beach lights up and dances to the music of the bars, where you can cool off or enjoy a pad Thai. Simply stroll along the sand with the water up to your ankles as the tide comes in and stop at the bar that catches your fancy.
It is also common to see young Thais performing daring fire shows with flaming torches, which is why you might notice a faint smell of gasoline while enjoying a beer.
On the parallel street inland, you can find more restaurants, shops, agencies for booking return ferry trips, and motorbike rental shops.
Motorbikes are almost essential on Koh Tao, as the beaches are quite spread out. However, be cautious of the rental businesses, as some dishonest owners may try to charge for damages that may not exist.
After completing our Open Water course, we treated ourselves by staying at OK 2 Bungalows. No, it is not a 5-star hotel, but it is a group of simple cabins on the side of a mountain with beautiful views of Thian Og Bay.
This beach is known for being one of the best places to see adult sharks while snorkeling, which is why it is also called Shark Bay. Some visitors have reported seeing turtles that come close, though we did not have that experience.
Getting to this bay is more challenging than it first appears, as you have to navigate some very steep and somewhat dangerous paths, especially for inexperienced motorcycle riders (we had a small scare that ended up costing us 1,000 baht).
What surprised us the most was how almost alone we were on this beautiful beach, with only three other people and a black cat looking for company (and shade).
At that time, a mega-resort under construction led us to believe that this tranquility would not last long. If it has continued through the high season, it must be less secluded and likely filled with sun loungers and parasols. So, we’re not sure what you might find now…
The water’s clarity allows you to see fish without having to put your head underwater. If you sit on the sand and simply observe, you’ll soon be surrounded by curious marine life. If swimming isn’t your thing, resting on the sand in the shade of the trees is also a great option.
The third beach in Koh Tao I want to tell you about is Ao Leuk, my favorite. The first time we visited, we did some exercises with diving equipment and had my first dive. Despite the initial scare when I put the tank on my back and had a bit of a panic attack, I couldn’t help but be amazed by the water’s striking color. The underwater scenery left us speechless, but the view of the bay from the sand was equally breathtaking.
The real surprise came when we put on our masks and snorkels and went for a dive.
We had heard that it’s easy to spot baby sharks near the shore on this beach, and we were excited by the idea. We set out in search of these little creatures.
It took us a long time to find the first one. After an hour of swimming up and down, just as we were about to give up, Toni signaled to me underwater and pointed in the direction of a shark. It was no more than two palms long, but it was a shark—our first shark! Yes, it was small, but that didn’t diminish my excitement.
It was a reef shark that I managed to follow with my eyes for about half a minute, just long enough to take a photo before it disappeared quickly.
On subsequent visits, we saw many more sharks and found them more easily. They seemed to be almost everywhere—near the swimmers on the shore and close to the divers doing their exercises. We just had to be patient and observe.
Aside from sharks, there are dozens of different and colorful fish species that turn a simple swim into a real safari. I really wanted to see a turtle, but they say you have to leave something to see as an excuse to come back…
The most touristy area of Koh Tao is Sairee Village and its beach. If you’re looking for nightlife, a variety of restaurants with Western food, or shops where you can buy souvenirs, diving accessories, or beachwear, this is the place. It was perfect for us to buy the last little gifts: flip-flops for everyone!
This area is busier, but its long beach maintains the same beauty as the other beaches. It’s not ideal for those seeking a quiet retreat.
Tanote Bay is another bay in Koh Tao where you can dive and be amazed by the seabed until you’re wrinkled like a raisin. Although it may not be as pleasant as its neighbor Ao Leuk due to some rocky, shallow areas that make it difficult to stand and rest, it’s still worth bringing your goggles and snorkel for a swim.
In the middle of the bay, there is a rock that some dare to climb.
Northwest of Koh Tao is the tiny Nang Yuan, an island whose beauty has become its downfall. The sand and water here are stunning, but despite recent conservation efforts, all the coral in the bathing area is dead.
At the entrance to the island, where you have to pay to enter, they will inform you of the strict rules: fins are prohibited even though there’s nothing left to step on, and no water bottles are allowed; they will serve everything with straws at the bar.
In the north and northeast of Koh Tao, there are a few rocky coves that are quite difficult to access because the paths are poorly maintained and very rough in some sections. In fact, on one occasion, we had to turn around and abandon our attempt to visit one of them, but we did manage to reach some, as the photos show!
The central area of Koh Tao Island features a small mountain with a couple of viewpoints accessible by motorbike. Although there is a fee to access them, the panoramic view of the island is spectacular. These short breaks provided a nice respite from the beach, though, as I mentioned, the island is so small that you can see the sea from almost anywhere once you go up.
Many people visit Thailand, specifically Krabi, to climb. However, if you find yourself in Koh Tao and have the urge to climb, you can practice bouldering on the rocks scattered around the island. We spent a day with Saul, a climber and diving instructor (currently in Komodo), and had a fantastic time. Check out Toni climbing!
You can snorkel on your own at any beach you visit, but you can also book a boat trip that will take you to areas rich in marine life. If you’re interested in trying scuba diving for the first time, Koh Tao is the place to do it!
Here are some resources:
For those who want to do a bit more and help keep the archipelago clean, consider becoming a “Trash Hero” for a day. This initiative aims to keep the islands free of waste by organizing weekly clean-ups with travelers who want to help. Participants are rewarded with a meal.
With a collection of bungalows on a small hill overlooking Thian Og Bay Beach (also known as Shark Bay), Ok 2 Bungalows was our choice for spending a couple of weeks in Koh Tao, Thailand.
Recommended by our friend the Witch, and being close to Chalok Baan Kao Beach, this tranquil haven offered spectacular views and excellent cuisine at the guesthouse restaurant.
Here are some accommodation options by price range (from cheapest to most expensive) to suit your budget:
Back Home Backpackers is a hostel located very close to Khaosan Road. It offers mixed dormitory rooms, all equipped with air conditioning, a balcony, and access to a shared bathroom. It offers Wi-Fi in public areas, a tour desk, and luggage storage.
Namhasin Guesthouse is located about a 5-minute drive from Chalok Ban Kao Beach. It offers Wi-Fi in public areas. The comfortable rooms feature a fan, a seating area, and a private bathroom with a shower. The tour desk can arrange island excursions.
Located 200 meters from Sairee Beach, Good Dream Hotel (Khun Ying House) offers accommodations with a restaurant, free private parking, a fitness center, and a shared lounge. It offers family rooms, double rooms, and rooms with bunk beds, along with a terrace. An ATM is available and free WiFi is available throughout the property.
Khun Ying House is nestled among coconut trees and offers free Wi-Fi, free parking, and rooms with a TV. Rooms feature modern interiors, warm lighting, a refrigerator, and a shared bathroom. Some rooms have a private bathroom and air conditioning. There is a shared kitchen for guests and a tour desk.
El Budchui Village2 offers rooms with free Wi-Fi, 500 meters from Sairee Beach. Each accommodation is fitted with a fan, cable TV, a refrigerator, and a balcony with mountain views. Private bathrooms include a shower and free toiletries. The property offers a tour desk and bicycle and motorbike rental services.
Ananda Villa is a 3-minute walk from Mae Haad Beach and offers spacious, air-conditioned rooms with private terraces overlooking the sea or gardens. It features a restaurant, a tour desk, and free Wi-Fi in public areas. All rooms are equipped with a private bathroom with a shower and a coffee maker, refrigerator, and TV.
Located on Koh Tao’s beachfront, Aow Leuk Grand Hill offers a private beach area and free WiFi. It also features a tour desk and a terrace. Rooms feature a balcony with sea views and are equipped with a seating area, a wardrobe, and a private bathroom.
Very close to Sairee Beach, La Cigale‘s private villas are surrounded by greenery and include air conditioning, a flat-screen TV with cable and satellite channels, a DVD player, and a refrigerator. All have a bathroom with a shower, a hairdryer, and a bathrobe. The property offers a 24-hour reception, barbecue facilities, and laundry services.
Exploring the ocean floor is a fascinating activity, though for many, it can also be a bit unsettling. Simply putting on a diving mask and looking beneath the water reveals a whole new world of colors and unknown forms of life.
But this world needs to be cared for and respected. So, if you’re planning a trip that might include snorkeling and you don’t want your presence to have a negative impact on the ecosystem, you might be interested in what I share in the link above—what I’ve learned about responsible diving (with or without a tank).
Here’s a map of Koh Tao’s tourist areas. Just click on it to view the high-resolution image.
We didn’t settle on a particular restaurant or bar in Koh Tao, but you can find a wide variety of options, from local food to fast food. As with most islands, the closer you are to the sea, the more expensive your meal will be.
Although the island is quite small, getting from one beach to another can be challenging, and public transport is limited to a few pickup trucks. Despite some scams from less honest businesses, the most comfortable option on Koh Tao is to rent a motorbike.
Alternatively, you can explore the island by hiring an excursion or a “snorkeling tour” on a long-tail boat, where the boatman will stop at the best diving spots without the need to travel around the island by land.
Click on the image and it will take you to a new Google Maps window with all the points of interest to travel around Koh Tao.
We would love to come back in a few years and see that Koh Tao has not turned into a Koh Phangan and that Koh Phangan has not turned into a Koh Samui.
Although those who have known it for many years have noticed a big change, who knows—maybe those who are exploiting the island will realize that Koh Tao’s charm lies in being what it is and won’t let us all destroy it.
It would be wonderful to keep diving there for many years because, someday, we have to see the famous turtles that give the island its name or… a whale shark on a nearby dive… hey, you never know!
