Stewart Island is a stunning destination with almost untouched flora and fauna. It’s home to the famous kiwi bird and is, without a doubt, the best place to spot them during daylight hours. In addition, this large and mostly uninhabited island offers the rare chance to see the extraordinary Aurora Australis, or Southern Lights, on clear nights.With its many hiking trails—some quite extreme—this island may well be the ultimate adventure on your trip to New Zealand. Sounds good, doesn’t it?
Stewart Island is also known by its Māori name, Rakiura (I’ll use both names throughout this article), which literally means “glowing skies,” a reference to the Aurora Australis, the Southern Lights.
There are several Māori legends about the origin of the name. My favorite tells of a young man named Te Rakiuramau who, after being repeatedly rejected by the daughters of tribal chiefs, had his heartbreak reflected in the red skies at dusk and dawn. I love Māori legends!
The island is located 30 kilometers south of New Zealand’s South Island and spans 1,746 km². About 85% of the island is protected as part of Rakiura National Park. It’s rich in native forests and bird species such as the kiwi and the little blue penguin.
Unfortunately, invasive species such as deer and possums are also present. In fact, hunting these invasive species is a common activity on the island.
As for human population, Stewart Island is home to only about 440 residents, most of whom live in the town of Oban and make a living from fishing and tourism. Oban is connected by ferry to Bluff, at the southern tip of the South Island.
One of the great things about Stewart Island is its surprisingly mild climate, despite its proximity to the South Pole—it almost never snows. Because of this, Rakiura can be visited year-round.
If you’re planning to tackle one of the island’s longer hiking routes, summer is the best season. When I visited with my girlfriend in late February, we spent 10 days exploring the island (more on that later), and it only rained a couple of times. I even went swimming in the sea and rivers more than once.
That said, I didn’t get to see the Aurora Australis during our visit. These are more common in winter, from March to September. During those months, temperatures drop, and frequent rainfall makes the trails much muddier. Keep that in mind and choose the timing that best fits your travel goals.
It’s essential to travel to New Zealand with comprehensive insurance. We were among the first to offer the popular IATI discount, and you can now get it with Heymondo Travel Insurance as well.
You can find more information about both companies through the links provided above, or you can access the discount directly using the buttons below (in both cases, you’ll see the reduced final price on their website):
Internet is mandatory for getting around and using metservice, the country’s weather service. Keeping up to date with the weather is necessary if you don’t want to have any problems. It can also be very useful when translating if you don’t understand English very well.
To do this, we will tell you how to get a New Zealand SIM card with the internet and take advantage of its affordable prices. And now we also have information about the New Zealand eSIM with unlimited data.
Getting to Stewart Island isn’t exactly cheap. There are two main ways to get there, and one more scenic, less common option. Let’s look at all of them:
Being an island, the cheapest way to get there is by ferry—this is the method we used to get to Rakiura. Simply buy your tickets at the port of Bluff and hop on board.
There are usually two to three ferries per day, depending on the season (typically morning and afternoon). The price is steep: NZ$89 one-way, though you can save a bit by booking a return ticket.
The second main option is flying from Invercargill. A small plane will get you to Stewart Island in less than 20 minutes, with one-way fares around NZ$200. It’s a fast and comfortable option, though quite pricey.
Lastly, the most scenic (and expensive) option is to take a helicopter flight. If the plane seemed pricey, this one might leave you speechless.
As mentioned, if you plan to take the ferry, your goal is to reach Bluff. If you’re driving, it’s just over 20 minutes from Invercargill.
If you’re planning one of the island’s longer hikes, you’ll need a secure place to leave your car. Luckily, Bluff offers several car parks that charge a daily rate. Many hotels also offer valet parking—this is what we chose to do.
If you don’t have a car, a minibus service operates three times daily between Invercargill and Bluff. Look for Catch a Bus. And if you’re wondering how to get to Invercargill in the first place, just keep reading. 🙂
Invercargill is the largest city in the Southland region and is well-connected to the rest of New Zealand. You can fly in from any major airport in the country. From there, you can either take a small plane to Stewart Island or travel onward by land. Invercargill is also connected via InterCity bus to Dunedin (3 hours), Queenstown (3 hours), and Christchurch (10 hours).
And of course, if there’s a bus, you can drive too—usually with a shorter and more flexible travel time.
Ulva Island is a pristine sanctuary covered in New Zealand’s original vegetation and inhabited only by native bird species. It’s untouched, except for the well-maintained walking trails that crisscross this small island just off the coast of Stewart Island. The only way to reach Ulva Island is by boat, a 10-minute ride from Golden Bay in Rakiura.
This island is a true gem—a window into what New Zealand looked like before human impact. If you visit, remember that this is a protected sanctuary for plants and animals, and you are only a guest. This means: no pets, no drones, no bird call devices, no music, no dancing, no running… you get the idea, right?
You can, however, walk the trails, spot birds (it won’t be hard), and enjoy quiet, deserted beaches with views back toward Stewart Island. With some luck, you might see adorable kiwi birds, South Island robins, and a variety of seabirds.
The Rakiura Museum on Stewart Island houses an extensive collection of historical objects, artefacts, and photographs that tell the story of the island. It’s a quirky museum, blending traditional exhibits with interactive ones—using projectors and touchscreens to fully immerse visitors in the island’s heritage.
If you’re curious about the Māori legend I mentioned earlier, the museum also features several others, along with testimonies from early explorers and stories about the neighboring islands.
Located on the main street of Oban, just a 5-minute walk from the port, the museum is open daily. Entry costs NZ$10.
This local theatre has a unique style, with a 1970s vibe. It offers a wide range of films and is an ideal way to wind down after a long day or hike. The theatre also features a locally made film, “A Local’s Tail”, which plays on a loop. The film offers a quirky perspective on Stewart Island, seen through the eyes of a dog discovering Rakiura.
Stewart Island’s beaches all have a tropical feel, with crystal-clear blue waters and golden sands, and the added bonus of being completely deserted. Bathing Beach is no exception—this beautiful spot can be reached after a 15-minute uphill walk from Oban.
Don’t be discouraged by the climb; from the top, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of Oban and its harbor. Then it’s just a matter of descending through some bush to reach the beach.
On sunny days, you can swim or simply take a stroll along the shore, admiring the sea, rocky cliffs, and surrounding nature. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can walk a little further to reach the neighboring Butterfield Beach.
However, relaxing and sunbathing might be a bit tricky, as the infamous sandflies here will likely keep you on your toes—something to expect throughout your stay on Stewart Island.
As you’ve probably gathered, Rakiura’s economy relies heavily on fishing, making it the perfect place to enjoy some delicious “fish and chips” (historically, New Zealand was a former British colony, after all).
The local fish on Stewart Island is blue cod, and the restaurant where we had it, Kai Karte, serves the fish the traditional way—battered in butter and accompanied by crispy chips. Another popular spot in Oban is the South Sea Hotel, which offers both indoor and outdoor dining.
For a stunning view of Ulva Island, the Stewart Island coastline, and beautiful Golden Bay, make sure to hike up Observation Rock. The trail starts just outside Oban, and a short 15-minute walk uphill will lead you to the top.
If you time your visit during sunset, the views will be even more spectacular.
One of New Zealand’s Great Walks, the Rakiura Track is a must-do and requires advance booking. This 32-kilometer circuit can be completed in two to three days. You can start from Oban, although the official starting point is Lee Bay, 5 kilometers from the town, and the track ends at Fern Gully.
Some sections of the Rakiura Track overlap with the North West Circuit, which we did, and we found them to be charming, with a well-maintained path that made the experience even more enjoyable.
As I mentioned, the Rakiura Track is the best-maintained loop on Stewart Island. Most of the route follows the coastline, offering spectacular views of beaches and cliffs.
At one point, you’ll reach a small cove, after which you’ll enter the jungle, climb hills, and cross small streams.
However, if you’ve come for the beach, don’t be discouraged. Along this stretch, you’re likely to see the kiwi birds… in broad daylight!
When it comes to accommodation, you can camp in a tent or book one of the cabins designated for walkers, but these require reservations online or at the Oban Visitor Center.
This was the circuit we did, and I can tell you that it was quite an adventure. The route spans 125 kilometers and takes 9 to 10 days to complete. We finished it in 9 days by combining the last two sections (we were pretty motivated!). The North West Circuit shares the start and finish with the Rakiura Track. You can do the North West Circuit in either direction, but I recommend going counterclockwise so that the most challenging stages are at the end, allowing you to tackle them with a lighter backpack.
If all of this sounds appealing, pack your backpack well—because you’ll be without food for 10 days except for what you carry. But if you run low, some areas allow you to fish for giant Paua oysters.
This circuit is the hardest I’ve ever done and is truly a survival experience. The North West Circuit takes you through the northern part of Stewart Island, following the coastline and offering breathtaking panoramic views of the island.
It’s essential to plan your days carefully, as some beaches can only be visited at low tide.
This route is also excellent for seeing kiwi birds in broad daylight, which we did! However, the best part for me was the personal challenge—testing my limits and having the adventure of a lifetime.
While on the route, you can also hike up Mt. Anglen for a stunning panoramic view of Stewart Island. However, be prepared for a detour that will require an extra day.
Lastly, you can camp along the way or stay in public cabins for a very reasonable price. We did a mix of both. To do this hike, make sure to bring a map, compass, sturdy hiking boots, and mud covers, among other essentials.
Another challenge on Stewart Island is the Southern Circuit, a 71-kilometer loop that takes 4 to 6 days to complete. You can either take a taxi-boat to the start of the trail or walk for two days from Oban to get there.
This circuit takes you through the vast valleys of Freshwater and Rakeahua, where you’ll be completely immersed in nature. The Freshwater Valley is shared with the North West Circuit, and the trail here is well-maintained, though the surrounding area can be swampy and overgrown with bushes.
Stewart Island’s valleys are prone to flooding, so walking through them in rainy conditions is not recommended.
Just like the previous stops, you can choose to camp independently or stay in public huts for a symbolic fee.
Yes, as I’ve mentioned, Stewart Island is the best place to see the iconic kiwi birds. If you haven’t had your fill yet, this tour is specifically designed for you.
The adventure begins after sunset on a catamaran, as the birds are most active at night. The boat will take you to Glory Cove, where you’ll begin your search for the elusive kiwi birds in the Rakiura jungle. Under the starry sky, your guide will share details and stories about the island while you eagerly await a glimpse of these curious creatures.
A great way to explore Ulva Island without worrying about how to get there, what to see, or what to do. The tour takes you on a cruise around the waters of Stewart Island, where you may spot seals or penguins. At the end of the cruise, you’ll be dropped off at Ulva Island, where, with the help of a guide, you’ll explore this crime-free sanctuary and discover some of the world’s most unique birds.
The excursion takes care of everything for you, so all you have to do is enjoy and keep an eye out for the kiwi birds.
I highly recommend this tour if you’re on Rakiura Island with limited time and want to make the most of your visit. The tour takes you on a 90-minute journey from the town of Oban to Lee Bay, Halfmoon Bay, and Horseshoe Bay. The tour also passes by Observation Rock, offering stunning views along the way, all while a guide shares the history and interesting facts about Stewart Island.
To be honest, accommodation options on Stewart Island are limited. Being a small and not overly touristy island, you won’t find a wide variety (in fact, there are only three options on Booking), and most of them are concentrated in Oban. Even with that, I’ll give you a couple of good options to consider.
If you’re looking for affordable accommodation, the best option would be Stewart Island Backpackers. This hostel offers private rooms and dormitories with shared bathrooms. It also features a large common room with board games and puzzles, as well as a well-equipped kitchen.
The hostel is just a 3-minute drive from the start of the Rakiura Track and can be a great place to socialize and meet fellow hikers who will accompany you on your island trails.
If you’re looking for something more comfortable and private, Kaka Retreat Motel is the place to be. Located less than a minute from the ferry terminal and nestled in the greenery of Stewart Island, this motel offers private rooms and studios with a bathroom, terrace, and kitchen.
For a more luxurious experience, with incredible views from the terrace and elegant rooms, Stewart Island Lodge is the perfect choice. Located just a 5-minute walk from the center of Oban, this hotel offers all of the above, plus ferry transfers, pick-up service, and a continental breakfast. It’s the ideal spot to relax on the terrace, listen to the birds, and enjoy the starry nights of Rakiura Island.
As you may have noticed, you cannot bring your campervan to Stewart Island. This means that getting around here will be quite different from the rest of New Zealand, where you can usually drive anywhere. However, if you’ve become accustomed to traveling by car, you can rent a car on the island.
That being said, the best way to get around Rakiura is on foot. The island isn’t very large, and the town is quite small, so you can reach most places without getting too tired. Also, if you’re doing one of the hiking routes mentioned earlier, walking around the town can serve as a warm-up. However, if you’re carrying a full backpack, it’s best to explore the town after your hike or leave your backpack at one of the hotels I’ve mentioned above.
Another great way to get around Stewart Island is by bike or e-scooter. These are ideal for getting around Oban and its immediate surroundings, but don’t even think about venturing into the jungle on one—they’re not suited for that! Here is a link where you can rent bikes, e-scooters, and even cars.
As you can see, Stewart Island is completely dedicated to New Zealand’s natural beauty. It’s an incredible destination for hiking over several days, and also a place to discover the country’s native birds. With that in mind, I recommend visiting the island if you’re planning to do any of the hiking routes or explore Ulva Island. Otherwise, the trip may not be as worthwhile, given the high costs of getting to the island and accommodations.
If you’re only planning to visit Ulva Island and some of Stewart Island’s beaches, two days and one night should be enough to see it all. If you’re tackling the hiking routes I’ve described, the time required will vary greatly depending on the route you choose and how long it takes you to complete it.
Now, I’ll leave you with a round of practical tips and recommendations that are especially important when exploring an almost deserted island and embarking on multi-day hikes.
Click on the image and it will take you to a new Google Maps window with all the points of interest to travel around Steward Island.
