A bit less known but no less stunning than the famous Halong Bay, Tam Coc—just a few kilometers from Ninh Binh and about 100 km from Hanoi—offers a scenic boat ride and breathtaking views that were well worth a stop on our trip through Vietnam.
As if the limestone karsts of Halong Bay had invaded and settled on land, these massive rock formations are surrounded by lush vegetation and rice fields, creating a unique landscape that can be explored by boat along the Ngo Dong River.
Although you can visit Tam Coc on a day trip from Hanoi, a more comfortable option is to stay overnight in the nearby city of Ninh Binh (we stayed at the Canh Dieu Hotel) , which offers various accommodations and dining options. From there, you can also visit other nearby attractions, such as the Hoa Lu Citadel, Vietnam’s capital in the 10th century.
The hotel or a travel agency (either in Ninh Binh or Hanoi) can organize an excursion to Tam Coc, the Bich Dong Pagoda, and the citadel. However, if you have your own transport or rent a bicycle, you can easily explore the area on your own.
We set off early in the morning on our motorbike and headed straight to the boat dock where the river excursions begin. There, we paid the entrance fee (and bought ourselves the traditional Vietnamese Nón Lá hat for sun protection). Since it was still early, there was no queue and we were able to depart right away.
We got into one of the boats, where a woman was already waiting for us. After a polite but unenthusiastic greeting, she placed her feet on the oars and began to row in the unique local style.
The boat ride lasts a little over two hours, taking you along the Ngo Dong River through a valley of rice fields surrounded by karst formations. It’s a peaceful ride in a rowboat (although the speed they can reach is sometimes surprising—strong legs!).
The scenery is striking in its authenticity, though we were unlucky with the timing: the rice hadn’t grown yet. In the photos we’d seen beforehand, the fluorescent green of the fields created a vivid contrast with the landscape, making it even more beautiful.
Tam Coc means “three caves,” and you pass through all of them without leaving the boat. Each cave has a name: Hang Ca, Hang Giua, and Hang Cui. The first one is so long that it becomes almost completely dark in the middle—it’s nearly 130 meters long.
On the way out, we were lucky not to encounter many other boats as it was still early. But by the time we reached the third cave, other boats had arrived—some with persistent vendors selling drinks. On the return trip, the river was more crowded with tourists and even some noisy motorboats that took away from the magic of the experience.
After the peaceful boat ride, we stayed in the area and visited Bich Dong Temple and the Hoa Lu Citadel—but we’ll tell you more about that in the next post.
